To say that 2022 has not been an easy year for the U.K.’s pubs would be putting it mildly. Still recovering from the pandemic’s brutal legacy, they have had to battle new and unforeseen demons this year, including the soaring cost of everything from beer to electricity; cash-strapped consumers whose discretionary spending is drying up; and inadequate government support. For pubs, charting these choppy waters requires phenomenal resilience. But doing so while still making time to support their communities, fundraise for charitable causes, and even have some fun on the side? That takes something special.
The Dodo Micropub—a teeny jewel of a pub in Hanwell, West London—really is that special, and so is its owner and founder, Lucy Do. Established after Do decided corporate life wasn’t for her, the Dodo marked its fifth birthday in January 2022. October brought more celebration, when the Dodo was named Pub of the Year at the inaugural Be Inclusive Spotlight Hospitality Awards.
That accolade is no accident: I don’t know if I’ve ever been to a pub so warmly inviting and genuinely communal. Beyond pouring an ever-changing range of craft beers, the Dodo hosts regular events for its community, including food-and-beer-pairing nights, silent discos, kitchen residencies (mainly featuring women- and POC-led food businesses), and free cheeseboards on Sundays. It also participates in the Ealing Beer Festival, where its collaboration beer with Elusive Brewing was crowned 2022’s champion.
Outside of the Dodo, Do is busy lobbying to make the industry better. “It’s been a real honor and privilege to represent women in beer and ESEA [East and Southeast Asian people]/POC in the wider hospitality industry this year,” she says, having spoken at hospitality events and conferences about discrimination, challenges as a minority, and anti-racism. In March, the Dodo hosted a rare beer raffle to raise funds for Ukraine. And when HospoDemo protests calling for greater government aid for hospitality businesses were held in November, Do was right on the frontline.
For many in the industry, there is still the feeling that things will get worse for pubs before they get better. But that doesn’t mean there isn’t hope—especially when people like Do are fighting for the industry’s future, and encouraging its members to join forces. As she puts it, “It’s tough out there for everyone, but we all rise together.”
Words,Claire Bullen