This was foodbev maximalism. Everywhere I looked, there were signs of intentional curation. Or maybe it was just the opposite—a bunch of found objects unknowingly existing together. The stack of bills, mixed with mail, spewed over a wooden table like a design student’s drafting desk, only accompanied by a bag of onions. Greeting cards, notes, and other memorabilia taped up on the walls. Punk mise en place. A place where “Cards Accepted, Cash Preferred” and sandwich orders are still written by hand with a pencil and pad.
Joe Fournier is chef and owner of A&C Grocery at the top of Fox Street in Portland, Maine. Having worked in the labyrinth of Boston and New York City kitchens, Joe left the pit with a few scratches and burns. He probably wouldn’t like that I addressed him as “Chef,” but the food and hospitality presented the day I visited were worthy of the best culinary awards. I unwrapped my Italian sub—topped with house-made pickles, olives, and hots—paired with two brown napkins and a Lager from the kegerator. I’m not sure which Lager, and I didn’t bother to ask.
I came back about a month later with a DIY gift as a sign of gratitude. Joe was still there. A seasoned soul. Some may say a salty Mainer, reclaiming a spot on Munjoy Hill, back at his old stomping grounds. On April 1, Joe posted that A&C’s lease wasn’t going to be renewed after February 2022. Given the context, I thought we were all getting fooled. But A&C will survive, and as Joe writes, “This minor setback will not keep this train from choo chooing into the future.”
Words + Photoby Samer Khudairi